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Home PageDevil's Icebox Wild Cave Tours - Footwear and Lighting
Footwear Requirements and Recommendations
Click on the tread print samples on the left to view a larger version.
Best
3/4-top or high-top rubber sports cleats (as used in football, softball or soccer) perform well in mud but may be slippery on rocks. Low-cut cleats do not provide ankle support and are not allowed.
Average
Army jungle boots with a semi-lug type of sole, nylon uppers and
full ankle support. Gore-Tex boots may perform well, but cave mud will likely ruin the Gore-Tex material.
Poor
Army combat boots with ripple soles
perform poorly in mud; leather uppers do not
drain well. Hiking boots with small, narrowly spaced, 3/16" lugs provide poor traction.
Unacceptable
We will not allow low-cut boots or shoes (less than
three-quarter top) as they do not provide enough ankle
support; sneakers;
smooth-bottomed work boots;
rubber pullovers; slip-on boots; boots with zippers or Velcro; open-toed
shoes; and any without sufficient tread (less than 3/16").
Ten points to consider before purchasing
As no single headlamp likely has all of the above features, use the checklist below to select a suitable headlamp. Criteria are listed in order of priority.
1. Will lamp survive submersion in mud or water?
2. Does the lamp have a long burn time (hours of
light on one set of fresh batteries)?
The primary cause of lamp failure is when moisture, dirt or
mud enters the battery or lamp housing. This happens
especially when changing batteries or bulbs. The more
difficult or complicated the procedure, the more likely
moisture or dirt will impact lamp functioning. The less you
need to change the batteries, the less chance you'll have
lamp failure. Using a small cloth to clean and dry hands
prior to opening housing can help prevent lamp failure.
Note: Halogen and xenon bulbs usually burn
brighter than standard bulbs or LED-lamps, but also require
more power (heavier batteries and/or more frequent battery
changes). Standard incandescent bulbs require less power than
halogen lamps and are usually brighter than many 3-6 LED
lamps. LEDs use less electricity, and require fewer, if any,
battery changes during a WCT and do not require spare
bulbs
3. Can you change the batteries easily in complete
darkness?
Can you easily remove batteries (slide or push rather than
pry them out)? Can you open battery housing without using a
coin, screwdriver or other tools? We recommend you practice
changing batteries in the store (if possible) and at
home.
4. Does the lamp provide sufficient light for a
large, dark-walled area?
Much of the main cave passage is spacious with the
dark-colored walls absorbing much of the light. This makes it
difficult to see beyond your immediate area if lamps are not
bright enough. Lights that are bright enough for normal
camping, backpacking, climbing or even smaller caves may not
be sufficiently bright enough for much of the Devil's Icebox
main cave passage.
Does the lamp illuminate a long distance (5m is poor, 10-15m is average, 15-25m is good, 25m+ is excellent)? Can you adjust between narrow and wide beams (distance vs. immediate area)? Does lamp have reflective housing to increase amount of light per bulb or LED? Did you check LED configuration for maximum brightness (triangle vs. in-line, etc.)? See if the store will allow you to test lamp brightness in a dark room. Keep in mind that each person differs in how much light is required for an area to be sufficiently bright.
5. How reliable and durable is the headlamp overall?
- Battery housing: Loose or poorly-connected battery housing pieces are easy to lose, especially when changing batteries.
- Lamp housing: Are bulbs and LEDs protected from impact?
- Are lamp and battery circuitries protected from moisture and dirt? Exposed lamp circuitry or external lamp wiring (as in back-or side-mounted battery packs) is more susceptible to damage.
- Headband: Sturdy straps are preferred; thin-elastic and/or retractable cords are not recommended.
6. Does lamp have option to easily switch between
various light settings or power sources without removing
batteries or needing to change a module?
This means switching from high-output bulb to a low-output
bulb or from high to low power on the same bulb(s).
7. Does headlamp mount easily and securely on
helmet?
Odd shapes are difficult to mount. Head straps that go both
over and around the helmet are helpful.
8. Is a spare bulb included (required for Devil's
Icebox WCTs)?
If not, you will have to purchase one.
9. Is the lamp lightweight?
Weight is affected most by number and size of batteries and
may be distributed in front, in back, or as a detachable
battery pack carried on a belt or in a pocket.
10. How much should you pay?
While adequate lights are available for $25-$35, you tend to
get what you pay for. Most lamps under $25 are not designed
for caving purposes and are usually more susceptible to
moisture and dirt. If you have uses for a headlamp on other
adventures or activities, it is usually worth it to spend a
little more for a quality headlamp.
Where can I purchase caving equipment?
Suppliers that carry caving headlamps and/or caving gear include wilderness supply/sporting goods stores, sporting goods sections in department stores, some hardware stores, various catalogs and Web sites related to sporting goods, wilderness supply, climbing, camping and caving. Local (Columbia, Mo.) specialty stores that carry caving lights and/or other caving gear include the following:
| Alpine Shop III 1102 Broadway East Columbia, MO 65203 573-817-2955 |
Bass Pro Shop Sportsman Center 3100 Vandiver Drive Columbia, MO 65202 573-886-7100 |
Captain Nemo's Dive Shop 1414B Rangeline Street Columbia, MO 65201 573-442-3483 |
| ArmyGear.net 1500 I-70 Dr. SW Columbia, MO 65203 |
Play It Again Sports 1206 Business Loop 70 West Columbia, MO 65202 573-442-9291 |
Walt's Bicycle, Fitness & Wilderness Co. 1217 Rogers Street Columbia, MO 65201 573-886-9258 |
